A Different Kind Of Kandersteg

We have never been to Kandersteg in the winter, preferring instead to go in the early spring for the alpine flowers, or in the summer for the high level walking. However in 2008, for a number of reasons, we were unable to get away until the last week in October. Still not winter, strictly speaking, still very much Autumn, but a trip to Kandersteg was very much needed. We checked into the self catering chalets adjacent to The Hotel Chalet Adler, which has been our preference in recent years. For the first three days the weather was perfect for walking and we made the most of it. The colours were very different from what we were used to seeing in Kandersteg, but the mountain air was as fresh and clear as ever and the walking was just spectacular, as it always is when the weather is kind. Little did we know it was going to be a week of two halves!

With the autumn sun being much lower in the sky, shadows were more of an issue in the photographs. As we headed up to Oschinensee we looked across the valley to Almenalp and Bunderspitz.

A little light, fresh snow on the upper reaches of the Blumlisalp.

We approached Oschinensee wondering if the sun would get high enough to illuminate it's bright blue waters.

As the shadows pulled back the low angle of the sun created a magical display of sparkles on the glistening surface of the lake. (Wish I could find the video).

The water level was low after the long summer.

But fortunately the cafe was still open. Excellent refreshments and even better views. Definitely a place to linger.

Heading back down to the village and mist was creeping up the valley, indicating a change in the weather to come.

So, the next morning and no change in the weather yet, so we decided on the walk to Gemmi Pas in spectacularly clear weather. Stunning views. This is the Spittelmatte and just beyond the large boulders the point where The Bernese Oberland becomes The Valais.

Having crossed the border between the two cantons we headed up, leaving the Spittelmatte below us.

Soon to arrive at The Hotel Schwarenbach. Not a hotel as we imagine them in the UK, but a mountain hotel, a hostel for walkers and climbers, but still a very comfortable place. Also a great place for day walkers like us to stop for refreshments. As described in an earlier blog, Schwarenbach has had a host of interesting boarders over the years it has been up here in the mountains.

Hard not to stop, at least just for a hot chocolate, Swiss style.

As we approached Daubensee we could see that the waterline was well below what we normally see in the spring. Daubensee's only source of water is melt water from the mountains that surround it. In the spring and summer when the snows are melting it is full, but now in October it is starved of it's lifeline and waiting for the next season's snows to arrive.

The water is usually up to the point where I was standing to take this photo.

Daubensee is almost non existent. A dark grey, damp patch where the beautiful lake usually laps the feet of the mountains.

From Gemmi Pass the view is one of the best in The Alps. To the uninitiated it can take your breath away as you arrive, walking up the incline from Daubensee and suddenly the path comes to an end with a huge drop down to the small town of Leukerbad. When you get over the shock of the enormity of the drop, your eyes lift up to see a chain of mountains that are the Valais giants of Mischabel, The Matterhorn, Dent Blanche and many more. A stunning view.

It is possible to continue on foot down to Leukerbad, along a steep and winding path, or by cablecar from Gemmi to Leukerbad. On this occasion we chose to re trace our footsteps back down towards Daubensee.

Schwarenbach comes into view. This photo gives some idea of it's incredible setting.

The autumn coloured larches on Spittelmatte.

Almost back at the Sunbelt cablecar that would take us down to Kandersteg. The summit of The Doldernhorn towering above us and the deep valley of the Gasterntaal in the dark shadows. Tomorrow we will explore the Gasterntaal.

We woke up to a definite change in the weather, cloud cover and a damper, but cool feel. Walking from the village we headed up The Klus, a torrent that plunges down a narrow gorge from the Gasterntaal towards Kandersteg.

When The Hotel Waldhus stands beside the path as it levels out at the entrance to this 'hidden valley'. The Waldhus is part farm and part mountain guesthouse. A great place to warm up and dry out with a hot chocolate when the weather is inclement and a good place to enjoy the beauty of the valley when the sun is shining.

Was the weather getting darker? or was it the effect of being in the narrow, high sided valley?

In the spring this valley is full of alpine flowers, most notably, the Lady's Slipper Orchid. 

By now it was obvious that the weather was closing in, so we turned and headed back to Kandersteg. It was raining for the last couple of miles on our way back and very cold with it. We were looking forward to a warm evening in our cosy chalet. At some point in the evening the rain turned to snow and we retired to bed, wondering what the valley would look like in the morning.

The poor sapling outside our door seemed to be struggling under the weight of snow.

I think breakfast on the patio is out of the question.

It had snowed all night, but the hotel staff had been out early and cleared a path from our chalet, even before we awoke. The phrase that springs to mind is Customer service exceeded expectations!

There are two churches in Kandersteg, this is the protestant one in the centre of the village.

And this is the Catholic church a few hundred metres away. Looking rather splendid in it's winter coat.

Even some of the large trees were bending under the weight of snow.

Suddenly the clouds lifted and the mountains began to re appear.

Blue sky?

And maybe some sunshine?

By the time we got up (and it wasn't late) the roads and pavements had been cleared. Where the snow lay untouched it was knee deep, but even so, the clearing operation had got into full swing so no one was inconvenienced.

We got our view of Kandersteg in winter. Even though it was still only the end of October.