More of Zermatt. There's always more of Zermatt...

We have been visiting Zermatt since 1992 and have enjoyed some amazing walking in the area. Long days in the alpine sunshine, with extensive views of snow capped peaks. Alpine flowers, particularly in the early part of the summer..... Zermatt has much to offer in the summer.

As you might expect, the view of The Matterhorn is quite dominant around the upper Mattertaal valley.

It is possible to get the train up to Gornergratt and at over 11,000ft I would recommend it. We have walked the 5,000 feet up from Zermatt, but if you take the train up you will still have some energy left to explore the high mountain region of Gornergratt and enjoy the views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

This view is taken from the station at Gornergratt! Monta Rosa, the highest mountain in Italy and Liskam to the right of the glacier.

The twin peaks of Castor and Pollux.

The highest point on this photo is of The Briethorn, the small dark triangle to it's right is the Kliene Matterhorn. There is a cablecar all the way up to this point 12,740 ft, it is the highest place in Europe that can be reached by cablecar.

I still don't quite understand how a pond like this can exist on a glacier without freezing.

A view of the Riffelhorn, nearest on the right with the Matterhorn behind. The Riffelhorn is often used as a 'trying ground' for would be Matterhorn ascenteurs.

Riffelsee sits just below the Gornergratt Station. On a good day, the reflections of the Matterhorn are irresistible.

There are good footpaths from here all the way back down to Zermatt. 

Just below Riffelsee there is a good sized herd of Ibex. If you are lucky and keep your eyes peeled, you may see them. On one occasion in September, we were lucky enough to see the males rutting. Their horns made quite a noise as they battled for supremacy over the herd.

The walk back down to Zermatt. Glad we came up on the train, it looks a long way down!

Another good day out from Zermatt is to take the cablecar up to Schwarzee, seen in the picture above. Another location that, in the right weather conditions, is absolutely irresistible to photographers. The chapel by this high mountain lake, with the Obergabelhorn as a backdrop, well it doesn't need any explanation, just look at the picture!

If you take the path up from the lake it is possible to walk up to the Hornli Hut. This is where climbers who are hoping to ascend the summit of the Matterhorn will spend the night, ready for the early start that is necessary to reach the summit. They will normally set off in the darkness at around 4 a.m and climbing up the Hornli ridge, reach the summit around lunchtime.

It feels like the Matterhorn is very close from up here. It's a good place to get a close up view of the mountain. A place to contemplate the Hornli Ridge and say to yourself "Mmm, maybe not".

Our descent back to Zermatt heads towards the Zmutt glacier. The extent to which the glacier has shrunk is very clear from here.

This path offers good views of the north face of the Matterhorn and the Hornli Ridge which is the division between sunlight and shade on the mountain.

The approach to Zermatt passes through the small mountain village of Zmutt.

In September the fields around Zmutt are full of Autumn Crocuses.

And back into Zermatt, with it's busy streets, hotels and restaurants. This is the floraly decorated Hotel Julen.

The next day out is a walk up to Stellisee...

The route up to Stellisee starts with an underground funicular railway up to the Sunegga plateau and this is the view you are greeted with as you step out, blinking, into the bright sunlight. From here it is possible to take a cablecar up to Blauherd and then the walk to Stellikee is just a fairly short contour path around the mountainside. Our preference is to make the one hour walk from Sunegga up to Stellisee and enjoy the views and the wildflowers along the way.

The rocky path makes it's way around the mountain, the Matterhorn never far from sight.

And around the corner, a seat with a view and what a view!

From August on you are likely to see Edelweiss along this section of path so keep an eye open for them.

Stellisee, another photographer's paradise.

The path down passes through an area where a glacier has recently retreated from.

And through the small hamlet of traditional houses at Findeln.

There is always somewhere with a beautiful view where you can stop for lunch.

Trift Hotel and the Hohnweg.

There is a path that leaves Zermatt to the east that is very a very steep ascent, not difficult, or exposed, just very steep and winding. At first it goes through some alpine meadows with lots of interesting flowers, before entering a wood and continuing up to the Edelweiss Hotel. The Edelweiss sits on a rocky promontory high above the town, with wonderful views all around. It makes for a good stopping off point for some refreshment.

From The Edelweiss the path enters a hanging valley, the Trift valley where the incline it now not quite so steep.

Heading up through the meadows out of Zermatt, towards the Edelweiss Hotel.

From the Edelweiss the path heads up the Trift an even higher mountain lodge, the Trift Hotel.

In the spring the sides of the path are full of alpine flowers.

From the Trift Hotel the path swings around to the left and climbs up to a high shelf. The Trift must be about the only place around here where the Matterhorn is not in view, not yet anyway. This picture is taken 45 minutes after leaving the Trift, looking back, down towards the Trift Hotel.

Eventually the path levels out with views right across the valley. The small looking dark peak near the centre of the picture is the Riffelhorn with Gornergratt and the Riffelalp to the left of it.

The Matterhorn now comes into view and the Dent D'Heren (seen here) just behind it. You can see here again how far the Zmutt glacier has retreated.

Great views of the north face of the Matterhorn where there are regular icefalls and avalanches that can be observed from here. The path here continues along the shelf high above the valley below.

After whet begins to feel like ages, we start to get a view of the valley we must defend into, knowing that there is still another seven miles back to Zermatt once we get down there!

The descent begins.

Some incredible examples of glaciated bedrock alongside the path.

As we get back towards civilisation the meadows have some lovely examples of Valaisian barns. The barns are supported on stable stones as you can see in the picture. Some accounts say it is so the avalanches can go straight under them, others say it is so that they can easily be knocked of the stones in an avalanche. This would save them from being demolished, but I wouldn't like to drag one back up the hill!

Maybe time for a look at Zermatt.

Zermatt is a classic alpine resort, at the top end of the Mattertaal, it sits beneath the Matterhorn. Although it existed as a small farming before tourism, it can be said that the modern Zermatt is there purely because of tourism, but perhaps more accurately, because of the Matterhorn, After all, it must be the reason everybody goes to Zermatt, to see the mighty Matterhorn. And nothing can prepare you for how majestic it looks, towering above the small town of Zermatt. No photographs convey the total domination that this mountain has of the area, in a country of truly stunning sights, this one is a show stopper!
Our first impressions of Zermatt weren't good. We thought it far too crowded and touristy and it can be both of those, particularly during the day. However, if you can take yourself out into the mountains during the day you can avoid most of that and in the evenings, when all the day trippers have gone, it can be quite a pleasant and relaxed place to be. It is quite a  cosmopolitan place as people flock from all over the world to see this iconic mountain. (There, I've said it! I used the dreaded, overused I word).

The old streets of Zermatt, with it's wooden Malaysian buildings.

The even older streets of Zermatt. Some of these old barns, preserved in the middle of Zermatt are hundreds of years old.

The view from our hotel as another train load of tourists head up the mountain.

It's worth the train trip up to Gornergratt at 13,000ft. The views of Monta Rosa the glaciers are spectacular. Don't forget your sun glasses, it's very bright up there!

The twin peaks of Castor and Pollux in the centre of the photograph.

It's why they come! The Matterhorn.

A Different Kind Of Kandersteg

We have never been to Kandersteg in the winter, preferring instead to go in the early spring for the alpine flowers, or in the summer for the high level walking. However in 2008, for a number of reasons, we were unable to get away until the last week in October. Still not winter, strictly speaking, still very much Autumn, but a trip to Kandersteg was very much needed. We checked into the self catering chalets adjacent to The Hotel Chalet Adler, which has been our preference in recent years. For the first three days the weather was perfect for walking and we made the most of it. The colours were very different from what we were used to seeing in Kandersteg, but the mountain air was as fresh and clear as ever and the walking was just spectacular, as it always is when the weather is kind. Little did we know it was going to be a week of two halves!

With the autumn sun being much lower in the sky, shadows were more of an issue in the photographs. As we headed up to Oschinensee we looked across the valley to Almenalp and Bunderspitz.

A little light, fresh snow on the upper reaches of the Blumlisalp.

We approached Oschinensee wondering if the sun would get high enough to illuminate it's bright blue waters.

As the shadows pulled back the low angle of the sun created a magical display of sparkles on the glistening surface of the lake. (Wish I could find the video).

The water level was low after the long summer.

But fortunately the cafe was still open. Excellent refreshments and even better views. Definitely a place to linger.

Heading back down to the village and mist was creeping up the valley, indicating a change in the weather to come.

So, the next morning and no change in the weather yet, so we decided on the walk to Gemmi Pas in spectacularly clear weather. Stunning views. This is the Spittelmatte and just beyond the large boulders the point where The Bernese Oberland becomes The Valais.

Having crossed the border between the two cantons we headed up, leaving the Spittelmatte below us.

Soon to arrive at The Hotel Schwarenbach. Not a hotel as we imagine them in the UK, but a mountain hotel, a hostel for walkers and climbers, but still a very comfortable place. Also a great place for day walkers like us to stop for refreshments. As described in an earlier blog, Schwarenbach has had a host of interesting boarders over the years it has been up here in the mountains.

Hard not to stop, at least just for a hot chocolate, Swiss style.

As we approached Daubensee we could see that the waterline was well below what we normally see in the spring. Daubensee's only source of water is melt water from the mountains that surround it. In the spring and summer when the snows are melting it is full, but now in October it is starved of it's lifeline and waiting for the next season's snows to arrive.

The water is usually up to the point where I was standing to take this photo.

Daubensee is almost non existent. A dark grey, damp patch where the beautiful lake usually laps the feet of the mountains.

From Gemmi Pass the view is one of the best in The Alps. To the uninitiated it can take your breath away as you arrive, walking up the incline from Daubensee and suddenly the path comes to an end with a huge drop down to the small town of Leukerbad. When you get over the shock of the enormity of the drop, your eyes lift up to see a chain of mountains that are the Valais giants of Mischabel, The Matterhorn, Dent Blanche and many more. A stunning view.

It is possible to continue on foot down to Leukerbad, along a steep and winding path, or by cablecar from Gemmi to Leukerbad. On this occasion we chose to re trace our footsteps back down towards Daubensee.

Schwarenbach comes into view. This photo gives some idea of it's incredible setting.

The autumn coloured larches on Spittelmatte.

Almost back at the Sunbelt cablecar that would take us down to Kandersteg. The summit of The Doldernhorn towering above us and the deep valley of the Gasterntaal in the dark shadows. Tomorrow we will explore the Gasterntaal.

We woke up to a definite change in the weather, cloud cover and a damper, but cool feel. Walking from the village we headed up The Klus, a torrent that plunges down a narrow gorge from the Gasterntaal towards Kandersteg.

When The Hotel Waldhus stands beside the path as it levels out at the entrance to this 'hidden valley'. The Waldhus is part farm and part mountain guesthouse. A great place to warm up and dry out with a hot chocolate when the weather is inclement and a good place to enjoy the beauty of the valley when the sun is shining.

Was the weather getting darker? or was it the effect of being in the narrow, high sided valley?

In the spring this valley is full of alpine flowers, most notably, the Lady's Slipper Orchid. 

By now it was obvious that the weather was closing in, so we turned and headed back to Kandersteg. It was raining for the last couple of miles on our way back and very cold with it. We were looking forward to a warm evening in our cosy chalet. At some point in the evening the rain turned to snow and we retired to bed, wondering what the valley would look like in the morning.

The poor sapling outside our door seemed to be struggling under the weight of snow.

I think breakfast on the patio is out of the question.

It had snowed all night, but the hotel staff had been out early and cleared a path from our chalet, even before we awoke. The phrase that springs to mind is Customer service exceeded expectations!

There are two churches in Kandersteg, this is the protestant one in the centre of the village.

And this is the Catholic church a few hundred metres away. Looking rather splendid in it's winter coat.

Even some of the large trees were bending under the weight of snow.

Suddenly the clouds lifted and the mountains began to re appear.

Blue sky?

And maybe some sunshine?

By the time we got up (and it wasn't late) the roads and pavements had been cleared. Where the snow lay untouched it was knee deep, but even so, the clearing operation had got into full swing so no one was inconvenienced.

We got our view of Kandersteg in winter. Even though it was still only the end of October.