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The Gasterntal is a valley paradise on a warm summer's day, but in winter, the residents and all of their animals leave the valley and come down to Kandersteg. They abandon the valley for the winter, leaving it to the ravages of snow and ice, avalanche and floods. Every time we re visit, things have changed. It might be the course of the river, or it could be a whole area of forest flattened by avalanche, or rock fall. It is a changing landscape, but in the vastness of the valley as a whole, it doesn't change. The high valley walls, the waterfalls and the rushing river Kander all remain and in summer, the pastures are full of cows with the musical sound of their cowbells and glorious flush of wild flowers, make this a walkers paradise.
We used to walk up the valley from Kandersteg to the small village high in the Gasterntal, sometimes beyond and then walk back down again, about nine miles each way. This year we took the small minibus that leaves from Kandersteg station and winds it's way up the precarious road and into the upper valley. There is a one way system that operates in the valley that is based on the time of day. The minibus is operated by Kander Riesen and you do have to book the day before.
Taking the minibus would give us time to enjoy photographing the scenery and flowers on the way down.
Selden is little more than a collection of small summer farms, but there are also two small hotel / guesthouses there. We spent a wonderful night at the Steinbok many years ago, which gave us the chance to walk up to the Kanderfirn glacier the following morning. The Kanderfirn is another five miles up the valley and crucially, another 3,000 feet higher than Selden.
Selden site in the upper Gasterntal at a height of 1537 metres, or about 5,000 feet. The way back down the valley starts along the narrow single track road, but soon a path leaves the road and heads down through the forest where, in the autumn we have seen the rare Ghost Orchid.
As you come out of the steep wooded slopes you will reach the valley bottom which is narrow with high cliffs on both sides.
You can see that the river can at times, almost fill the valley floor. When the snows are melting in the early part of the year it is quite a torrent.
Many waterfalls pour down the sides of the valley.
The glacier covered mountain at the top is the Balmhorn 3700 metres (12,000 ft).
In such majestic surroundings it is tempting to let your eyes be drawn constantly upwards, in awe of the waterfalls and high mountains. But be careful not to miss what is growing at your feet. In places along this valley, growing in the dappled light of the woodlands at the sides of the path, you might be lucky enough to spot the rare Lady's Slipper Orchid.
A joyous discovery for those lucky enough to be here at the right time. That time can vary depending on the weather, but is usually around the second half of June.
They are indeed a splendid sight.
Looking upstream, back towards Selden.
Looking downstream from the bridge. You could be forgiven for thinking there is no way out of this valley!
Soon the gravel bed of the river gives way to flower filled meadows.
Believe it or not there is a path up the cliff, near to the waterfall. The path gives access to the Balmhorn Hut which sits on the ledge just above the waterfall and provides accommodation and refreshment to walkers and climbers.
In some places the water pours off the mountain and in cases like this, it pours out of the mountain.
Heading through the meadows towards Gasthof Waldhus, we are still looking for a way out of this beautiful valley.
Farm buildings come into view
And Waldhus appears, with the temptation of a stop for rest and refreshment. It is possible to re join the minibus back to Kandersteg at this point.
We follow the river Kander as it heads for the narrow gorge known as the Chluse
The flowers along the path are still quite breath taking.
The river is a tremendous force as it is squeezed into the narrow gorge. This is another area where the path has often been altered by the force of nature.
At last we can see Kandersteg appearing in the Kander valley below us. The descent of the gorge is only 536 feet, but it is a steep descent.
As we come out of the Chluse we are back in the Kander valley, just near to the Sunbuel cablecar station. Just another mile or two back to the village......
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